Tehipite Wilderness Trek - Kings Canyon National Park
This trek was an incredible test of my physical strength and endurance as well as my will to persist through any and all challenges. What a great experience. To be the only woman among a group of 14 was an experience in and of itself. Below are my journal entries from the Trek.
Aug.1-8, 2009
Day 1- 6.5 miles at least 2000 ft elevation gain from 6000-8000 ft.
Got a late start getting to the trail head and so we only had a half a day; full pack weight, altitude to adjust to and elevation gain. It was a tough afternoon. Had difficulty finding the trail head and also our trail junctions…so we lost some time there.
Had to camp in a cow pasture with lots of mosquitoes and only mucky water, yuk!
Day 1 was tough cause we got a late start and couldn’t find the trailhead and it was all uphill with 2000 ft. elevation gain. It kept going up and up and up. Ouch.
We made camp in a meadow.
Walked through cattle ravaged land, cow pies and dust. So much Dust! In our eyes and in our noses….
Day 2
We needed to make up mileage that we didn’t cover the first day. And again trouble staying on the trail because there were so many cattle paths, that staying on course was a real challenge and age up some time again.
We reached Crown Valley...this was originally going to be our destination for Day 1, but know we are mid morning of Day 2.
From Crown Valley at 8500 ft., we hiked through forest fire ravaged land for much of the afternoon, and finally reached the edge of the Valley. What a view!
Today was a total of 18 miles, lots of ups and downs for 10 miles through beautiful forests, meadows and then fire ravaged forests; then a grueling downhill, steep, steep climb to the River.
But before we descended down down down into the valley, the edge of the canyon- the views were amazing. Looked a lot like Yosemite. Spectacular. Hard to believe only about 50 people a year make it into this remote valley.
Very very tough day. Roger almost had heat stroke. I was going very very slow and I could hardly walk at the end….felt like my feet could hardly move and they hurt so much. It was hot and dusty and steep and buggy and I never thought the down hill was going to end. It kept going and going. I thought before we started “how hard could this be? I do Snively’s and Rocky Ridge all the time and they are so steep”. Well this was like nothing I ever experienced. Wow.
The 18 miles was more than Half Down and almost as much as Whitney…22 miles.
My feet are aching. I put arnica naturpatches and salonspas on my feet to see which helps most. Salnspas are amazing. They worked through the night and into the next day. I put on therapeutic sport oil, biofreeze onto rt. Knee. Massage my feet with lotion and some crème.
Day 2 was a killer.
Day 3- We left camp late- the boys found rattlesnakes. We heard the valley was infested with rattlesnakes. Before we left town- where we had breakfast and got water before heading to the Wishon reservoir trailhead….Nick talked to some locals. And an old couple commented on how many rattlers there were down there. A friend of theirs killed 55 when he was down there….yikes! scary!! How do we keep the boys or any of us from getting bit?!
The boys saw them on the rocks down by the river. We had come down this dry dry steep trail to cool off at the river…only to see rattlers sleeping on the rocks! Larry was fishing in the morning and there was one right by his feet! It was sleeping and stayed there while he left to get his camera and to get the boys to show them. They are not aggressive, I learned.
Larry caught trout and cooked that. Our campspot had a spectacular view of Tehipite Dome. We were at the foot of the river. Boys were swimming and washing out socks and boxers. It was a beautiful spot. Except for the snakes!!!
We left late on Day 3 and thus didn’t cover much ground or as much as we needed. Terrain reminded me of Tassajara. Big Oaks, granite boulders, rattlesnakes, water running down crevaces of creeks.
The boys swam and crossed the river and were sitting on the rocks and logs and it seemed like such a classic timeless moment- summer in the sierras.
I had to make sure I didn’t over heat. Roger was not completely recovered from Day 2.
And so we stopped by creeks and cooled off by soaking our hats and my bandana in the water and wrapping that around my neck. It was buggy on the trail and black flies were annoying. I was pretty hot and moved pretty slowly.
I could have kept going for several miles and the boys wanted to too, but Larry was complaining that his knees were blown out from Day 2. So we camped early….again short of where we needed to be.
It was great to be by the water though and everyone went swimming or dipping in the water.. I washed out my clothes and enjoyed cleaning off the sweat and dust. There had been so much dust the last few days.
Day 4-
Left Camp early @7 a.m. I’ve been waking up at midnight and also 4 or 5a.m.. I think we covered anywhere from 10-14 miles today. My body is tired. I had a good start. I felt really strong today, with my remedies of Arnica, TARA lip balm, healing cream for my feet, foot pads and arnica naturopatch, therapeutic sport oil and high altitude adjustment oil.
I felt like I did a good job of using my remedies and managing my ailments, massaging my feet and knees. Anyway I felt good and I was able to take the lead behind Devon.
Devon walks so gracefully as if strolling and I struggle and huff and puff to keep up!
It was amazing to see how effortlessly he kept at such a swift pace shilw I was huffing and puffing- but I was pleased I was able to keep up. And later Jake told me he was impressed that I was in the lead position.
WE covered about 4 miles by breakfast. We hiked from 7a.m. -5:30p.m. with a good lunch break by the river.
Doug W had heat exhaustion and difficulty with the altitude. He had dry heeves. Roger almost had heat stroke on Day 2.
I learned from Nick that you need to manage these situations before people go “over the edge.” If they go too far and burn out the circuits its much harder to recover. I thought we needed to keep on slowly, or we would have more mileage to make up the next day. But it was a good lesson.
I started out strong with Devon and felt really good. Jake told me he was proud of me- Collin said I was a trooper. That made me feel good about my effort and they noticed “mom” was keeping good pace today.
Of course I had handed off my 2.5 lb. sleeping bag to Westin La Grandeur, and about 3 or 4 pounds of food and water shoes to Isaac….wow I felt like my pack was light as a feather. No wonder I was feeling so much better!! 6lbs lighter! Yahoo! They say every ounce counts. And it made a huge difference. But I’m wondering how I could ever manage with full weight. I think the kind of mileage we are trying to cover is huge. 18 miles, 6 plus, 10-12miles. It’s a lot. I wish I was even stronger.
Because after 8 or more miles, crossing the river and starting in a hot, exposed section and starting to climb in altitude….I started getting pooped in the heat and was dragging by thte end of the day. Lots of uphill and my legs were feeling it. I am not sure if I could have done this with full weight in my pack.
But it feels good knowing that I am making my body strong now.
We got into some aspens and sugar pine and cedar today. And even sage like in New Mexico. I wish I had had my camera because there were some spectacular sights today.
We found a nice camp spot and I am sleeping out under the stars for the first time since days in Big Sur with Nancy and Carolyn. With Bears and all….tonight.
I’ve been praying for the animal spirits to protect me.
The Rattlesnake
The Bear
The Hawk
We are in such wilderness that we can drink the water without purifiers. I witnessed the dance of the night sky with all its colors of indigo and stars and planets and the Full moon asit graced the stage of darkness- lit like a beacon in the night. I let moon light bathe me- as I did years ago when I lived at Harbin and was so connected to the night sky. And as it settled into a nest of clouds in the south west, the light of the morning sun began to, ever so softly, emerge in the east, illuminating pink clouds, floating in a pale blue sky.
Looking up at the sky from my nest of pine needles on the ledge of a large granite rock..I was embraced in a circle of pine trees, like a crown…which set the stage for the night sky show.
Stars, moon, clouds
All agains the backdrop of the sound of sierra run off, pure water for boys to splash and play in, for larry to fish in, and for Nick to bath in, and for Rodger and I to cool off in.
I am sleeping in one of the most beautiful spots- a nest or bed of pine deedless on a granite ledge surrounded by young cedar trees and overlooking the canyon from which we have hiked- from the top of oe lip down to the vein- the river and along the river working our way up to the edge of timberline- not there yet…
Today’s trek will be 7.5 miles of steep steep uphill. We’re about 6500 ft. and need to get to 8500 ft or more and then to cross a pass at 12,000 ft.
It will be a tough day. We need to get there before the expected unseasonable storm sets in. So we can “hunker down.” And then attempt the pass after the weather has cleared.
So our adventure continues…
Nick Mackenzie has done an amazing job leading this trek. His experienece paired with medical knowledge haas proven invaluable each day.
The older boys are impressive too- Weston, Nick describes as a stallion. Isaac, a thoroughbred chomping at the bit to race to the top. Weston- steady and strong he also reminds me of my spirit when I was his age- down to earth, love of the mountains, into Nature photography. He minds me of Larry Prochazka a little too- confident in the wilderness, has all his gear to manage any situation…have gear, will travel….
He’s found his preferences and his own ways of enjoying it out here. Making Oatmeal for desert, bringing his own fruits and special stuff just reminds me of Larry as the Mountain Man that I saw in him.
The Mountain Man, strong, confident, loving the mountains. In their element.
Colin has such a dry and witty sense of humour. He is always there if you need something done for some one. Helping to carry someones pack get more water fromte river, cook. Gentle, soft spoken, solid. He skinned a rattlesnake! I soon learned there were many sides of Colin I didn’t know…goofy, outspoken…wacky…
I’m impressed with how the younger boys have done. Its been some tough hiking and long days and lots of miles. They seem absolutely fine and able to keep on going- making it look effortless. Packs and all.
Day 5- I felt really great having had that illustrious evening and night caping under the stars and surrounded by a ring of trees. We had a big climb ahead up a rocky trail of granite overlooking off the edge and steeply down was the cascading river with tempting swimming holes but we had to push forward. That is my only regret- that we didn’t have enough time to stop by the river more and swim and play and hangout. We had to push forward. It reminded me of mist trail in Yosemite with steep steps or some ofothe trek oto half dome where it goes up and up and up. I felt really strong today. And jubilant because the high alpine wildflowers and the clear crisp stream and light air….was making me exhilarated. It was my rocky mountain high.
The boys – Weston had my sleeping bag 2.5 lbs and Isaac some of my food and water shoes. So eventhough we were climbing up to 8500 ft. and the air was clearly thinning- I felt very very good. Doug was still struggling with depletion. The boys carried his pack for some of the way then and each divied up more of his stuff to lighten the load.
The views of the canyon below and the craggy peaks above were spectacular. And as we climbed into alpine terrain, I started collecting botanical speciments: paintbrush, arnica Montana, manzanita, some I didn’t know, cedar, spruce, sage…
Didn’t know all their names of the plants but would like to learn.
I thought of making Nick a medicine pouch from me and ae in gratitude for the experience.
It was a long steep climb that seemed to be more than 7.5 miles. I started pooping out on the last push but everyone was tired. Even Westin, “our stallion” admitted he was tired. That made me feel better. Of course he was carrying 40 lbs. of his own and then for some time Doug’s 40 lb. pack on his front…so of course he was tired!
I’m concerned about the storm coming in and keeping everyone warm and dry. Not everyone has a tent or warm enough clothes/gear.
20 degree temps rain/snow coming- 4-5 inches of snow in the passes?!
We have minimal shelter and gear.
When we arrived at LaConte- Nick immediately started to build a shelter of limbs, branches and tarps to prepare for the storm. Its colder now. I went to bed early.
Jake was leader Day 5 and he did a good job leading the hike for the day.
We are surrounded by granite peaks just bordering timberline. Bear country for sure.
We got to drink fresh sierra water at Cartridge Creek. We’re now boiling it to purify.
I’m not sure the boys have brushed their teeth the entire trip and I’ve never seen my finger nails so dirty! I’m happy here in the mountains – a group trip makes for many more dynamics though.
8800 ft. and cold front moving in. Glad to have my down jacket. And the Go-Lite sleeping bags are awesome!!
Day 6 Sunny Cold
Sitting on a granite knoll, trying to get some sun and warmth before the storm hits.
Rodger sits quietly as if meditating. Nick takes the charge of the “situations” that arise. Larry is a strong helper and also keeps the boys on task. And any chance he can, he’s fishing in the river. Also our Photographer.
I am really glad to have done this. A test of endurance- and persistence.
If I wasn’t with a group I am not sure I could have done this. We’ve seen other trekkers now that we in La Conte. And I wonder where they are going. Where they’re from and what has inspired their adventure.
I loved seeing the array of wildflowers yesterday. It was gorgeous.
I hiked up to a “table rock” and layed in the sun. The clouds passed by swiftly- hard to know if the storm is going to hit or not.
I did some yoga and watched the clouds apss by and change shape and disintegrate. A gorgeous meadow I’m sitting in with gentle water flowing down. A special moment in the high sierra with peaks all around.
In gratitude I thanked the divine mother and father. My ancestors, my mom and granparents and Mark.
For giving me this life and the freedom to be here in the mountains- a place that challenges me but grounds me andmakes me feel at home.
I napped on my camping pad on the slab of granite abouve our campsite. The accompanied cloud cover. And when the sun broke through it was warm and comforting.
I slept better on the slab with my pad than in the tent on the hard ground.
We had a day of rest.
It was good for all. The boys traded up their candy and treats and pigged out.
The high sierra is similar to Colorado and New Mexico- paintbrush, asters, arnica all kinds of flowers I can’t identify. So we’re on this planet for a purpose- not to destroy it but as part of evolution. In each microclimate and elevation there is a myriad of new discoveries.
Day 7
we hike from La Conte over bishop’s pass 11.972 ft. 3.3 miles up switchbaks and through alpine meadows and granite up up as the air things and breathing is audible as if it is microphoned and piped into my brain. I think of climbs in Telluride that start at 9500 ft. and climbs in Banff that were 9000-10,000 or more. Each step I remind myself of these other climbs and they keep me going.
I think we did aobut 5 miles but because it was steep it seemed longer. We managed it well.
Everyone was good.
The boys are like an army of ants. They stick together and keep a trail andnever slow down- steady and strong.
Because of the winter storm we though we were going to get hit with- we aborted our full trek and will be picked up at South lake tomorrow-Saturday; 1 day early.
We would have gone over 4 passes at 11 or 12,000 ft. and very strenuous because of the mileage.
Hard to believe its over and its been 7 days already.
Time is so twisted at times.
We’re camping at 10,000 ft so its cold already. On one side is the high pass of rocky terrain with an alpine lade at its feet. ON the other side of our camp saddle, is the view of the dryer eastern Sierra.
COLD last night, fullish moon….
I found 2 small pine trees to nest under to stay out of the wind. It was soft and protected and I was removed from the group, on my own…I felt safe on my own. That was a good feeling.
Day 8
The moon is rising over the rugged ridge. Up at 6a.m. to get an early start descending down to South Lake to meet up with our Ride. It’s cold, but we’re all moving fast to get packed up and hit the last part of our trail. It feels bitter sweet. Love to be coming down, but sad to be leaving this beauty and entering the chaotic world we live in.
The High Sierra Lakes are so clear and reflect the mountains like a mirror.
I feel strong and now I could go on and on for a few more days, but keep dreaming of warmer weather and swimming in the river and laying on a granite slab to warm my bones.
